No, actually always. In some cases it is simply more complex.
You can usually find the Frankenswitches that I build here: [$NB] Frankenswitches. In the pictures you can also see which parts were used. In 90% of cases the switches that provide the components only have to be added and put back together with the respective parts. Of course you can still lubricate, film and so on, but basically the switches are quick to build.
Now I recently had the idea for what I would call a "themed Frankenswitch" (the idea then expanded further to a whole keyboard, but more on that when the time comes). On the one hand, it should have a good and smooth feel, but also fit the theme.
As with most projects, the name came first - THE PLAGUE. In keeping with the plague, the switch should be rather dark and grey in terms of styling.
A "box" stem and a fairly stiff spring would be cool. Now it takes a bit of research to find the right components (thanks to Theremin Goat and Switches MX).
After a long research, the following two switches came into focus as parts donors:
1. Akko Silver Switches:
The switches have a medium gray bottom housing and a gray stem, which is even a (pseudo) box stem that is MX compatible.
Yes, I am aware that they are not box stems in the true sense of the word, but for the sake of simplicity I am calling them box stems here.
2. Cherry Switches:
Cherry Switches have proven to be quite good in the past when it comes to top housings. They are produced relatively precisely and therefore have little wobble on the stem.
For this I use the Cherry MX Silent reds that I got from Farid (Duumvirat Podcast).
Since the Akko Silver Switches with 43g and the Cherry MX Silent Red with 45g are much too soft, new springs are also needed, namely Gold Springs with 80g. Anyone who knows me knows that anything under 80g is too light.
So now we have everything together:
- Akko Silver Stem
- Cherry MX Silent Red Top-Housing
- Gold Spring 80g
- Akko Silver Bottom-Housing (incl. Leaf)
It could be so easy - put it together - done.
But not with the components. There are still a few things to do.
Akko Silver Stem
The stem of the Akko switches is longer than the standard stem of the Cherry switches. Here is the comparison:
(from left: Akko CS silver stem | Akko CS silver stem (shortened) | Cherry MX Silent red stem)
The stem is shortened. It is shortened directly at the bulge on the lower part of the stem.
Afterwards it is best to rework it with fine sandpaper.
Cherry MX Silent Red Top Housing
When I first put the switch together there was the annoying side effect that the switch could not be closed completely.I compared and tried a lot of things. It was neither the stem, nor the leaf or other parts. No, there were two small bumps in the Cherry tops. I assume they are there to make the Cherry MX switches more stable.
Well, what can I say, they have to go.
(The bumps that have to go are marked)
(here with the bumps removed)
The easiest way to remove them is with a cutter or side cutters, but you have to be careful not to damage the top.
Once the bumps are removed, the switch fits perfectly.
(red = still too long | green = perfect)
With the prototype, however, I also noticed that the sound is really terrible. So since we already have the switches open, we'll lubricate them as much as we can. I oiled the spring with Balistol and the stem with Krytox.
When everything is completely modified, you'll have beautiful Frankenswitches.
As I said, I have a few more plans for the switches - there will be a whole "The Plague" keyboard. But more on that when the time comes.
So far - have fun with your Frankenswitches.
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